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Mitre Station Support, Clamp Storage & Tool Wall - Workshop Re-Model Episode 7

In this video I make a simple unit to support material at the right hand side of my mitre station while I make cuts that also holds some of my clamps too, and I start my first of two new tool walls.
 
I used some scrap blockboard and melamine to make a simple unit mounted on castors which sits about 1cm below the height of the mitre saw’s base so that when I cut material, the offcut doesn’t fall on to the floor of the workshop.
 
I made a simple rack inside the unit to hold my F clamps by cutting some slots in to another piece of blockboard and this was mounted inside the unit.  Then I added some narrow pieces of wood to stop the clamps rocking forward/backward which would also hold my spring clamps.  I also mounted a couple of simple plywood pieces to the side to hold my long reach C clamps.
 
That was the clamp storage/mitre station support sorted.
 
Next I mounted some sheets of reclaimed OSB to the wall of my workshop which would become my main tool wall near my work bench.  This wall was already insulated.   I had a few cuts to make to fit it to the wall as there was a power socket and light fixture in the way.  I made the cuts with the jigsaw and then mounted the OSB to the workshop wall uprights with screws and coated it with a few coats of white satin paint. 
 
Due to the walkway around my workbench being quite narrow, I only mounted things to the toolwall that would not protrude too much as I don’t want to be knocking things off as I walk by – things like rulers, squares, hammers, handsaws etc.  everything is held in place with drywall screws only – no fancy French cleats or anything.  Screws had worked fine for the past couple of years to hold everything, and nothing ever fell off the walls, so I saw no reason to complicate the job in hand!
 
Once the boards were mounted, I added decorators caulk to the gaps just to improve aesthetics.
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New Mitre Station (part 3 of 3) - Workshop Re-Model Episode 6

In part 3 I begin by making a new fence for the mitresaw.  Originally I was going to make one using wood, but while I was in my local DIY shop I stumbled upon some lengths of aluminium angle which were relatively inexpensive and it occurred to me that it would be worth using that instead as it is perfectly straight.  
 
I decided to fit this not only to the worktop of the mitrestation, but also to the saw itself to replace the existing mitre saw fence.  
 
I cut the aluminium to length with a hacksaw.  Then I marked up where to drill holes for the bolts very carefully using digital calipers.  I centre punched with an awl, applied oil and then drilled the holes with a 10mm drill bit.  The bolts were 8mm but I wanted to have some room for adjustments which would enable me to get the fence at a perfect 90 degree angle to the blade.
 
Next I fitted the fence to the mitre saw on one side and squared it up to the blade using a framing square.  I propped open the blade guard using a wedge of wood.  When it appeared that the fence was at 90 degrees to the blade, I secured the bolt on the other side and I could then do a test cut.
 
I swapped the blade out as I didn’t want to cut through aluminium with my new blade, and then I made the cut.
 
Next I made a test cut, flipped one of the pieces by 180 degrees and pushed both pieces up against the straight fence and there were no gaps inbetween the two pieces which told me that the cut was accurate at 90 degrees – I was surprised to get this right first time as it’s always taken me a few attempts in the past!
 
Then I secured the rest of the fence down to the worktop by drilling pilot holes, counter sinking, and adding screws.
 
I bought a metallic faced, adhesive measuring tapes by Kreg.  Rather than fitting it to the front of the fence I decided to mount a piece of wood to the back of the fence, and fit the measuring tape to the top of the piece of wood instead because I was worried that by applying it to the front it would affect the cutting accuracy.
 
I ripped a piece of wood to slightly below the height of the fence to leave space for the thickness of the measuring tape and attached it to the fence again with screws.  It was important to countersink the holes again so that the head of each screw was set back from the front of the fence so that it wouldn’t affect the accuracy of cuts.  I also had to cut away some material from the piece of wood for where the bolt heads were on the mitre saw using a forstner bit. 
 
To make sure that the measuring tape would stick effectively to the wood I applied some pva glue to seal the wood.  That worked well.
 
Next I started making a stop block.  I used a scrap of mahogany and a Stanley knife blade to make a measurement point marker.  The stop block was cut to an L shape at the tablesaw.  
 
I re-shaped the Stanley knife blade to the shape I wanted on the belt sander then I spray painted the tip of it black, and used epoxy to glue it to the stop block.
 
Then I could stick down the measuring tape to the piece of wood. I realised that I would need to offset the tape by the distance between the measuring pointer on the stop block which was just over 4mm.
 
I tested the accuracy of the stop block by setting it to 600mm and cutting a piece of wood, and then confirming with a tape measure that it measured exactly 600mm – and it did, so no further adjustments were necessary.
 
Next I fitted my dust collection hoses to both the saw and the belt sander mounted underneath the mitresaw cabinet.  I can then use the shop vac on either machine by swapping from hose to hose.
 
That is the mitre station complete.
 

 

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The New Mitre Station (part 2 of 3) - Workshop Re-Model Episode 5

In part 2 of the mitre station build, I started by fitting some structural supports/spacers to the mitresaw stand.  These would make the structure more rigid and also ensure that the space between the two panels would be evenly spaced so that I could later fit a drawer in the space.
 
Next I made a hood for the mitresaw to help contain any dust that my shop vac doesn’t catch.  I used some salvaged blockboard to make the hood, and another piece of white 1 inch thick melamine for the top.  I needed to cut away some of the material with the jigsaw to fit around both the workshop wall uprights and around a plug socket so that it was still accessible.
 
To fit the mitresaw to the melamine top, I made sure to position it so that all the tilt and pivot functions worked as they should.  Then I drilled pilot holes and added bolts, washers and nuts to secure the saw to the worktop.  The bolts I used were too long so I used an angle grinder to cut them to the right length.
 
I made the drawer for the mitresaw cabinet from some more blockboard and a piece of low grade plywood for the bottom.  I used the same method as I had used for the drawers in my tablesaw stand, however this time it didn’t go as well as the drawer was about 1mm too wide.  I tackled this by removing the drawer runners, running the assembled drawer through the tablesaw to trim off 1mm from one of the sides, and then re-fitted the runners.  This worked well.
 
For the drawer front, I used some more poplar that came from some salvaged pallet collars which would match the pieces I used to trim the plywood edges on the rest of the mitre station.  There were a lot of imperfections and knots in the wood so I ripped the best pieces on the tablesaw and glued up a panel big enough to use for the drawer front.
 
Once the glue had dried, I ran the panel through the thickness planer to clean it up and attached it to the drawer temporarily using hot glue until I could secure it permanently with screws from the inside of the drawer.
 
I made a handle for the drawer from another poplar offcut, ripped at an angle on the tablesaw to form a “finger pull” shape.
 
I finished the drawer front with some boiled linseed oil
 

The New Mitre Station (part 1 of 3) - Workshop Re-Model Episode 4

In this video I start making a new mitre station for my workshop to create space in the corner for a wood storage bin, and also to make it a little slimmer so there would be more walkway space.  
 
I dismantled my old mitre station and re-used most of the material for the new one.  
 
I started by screwing a horizontal support piece to the uprights of the workshop walls.  
 
Then I built the frame for the storage shelves (where I will store power tools and short scraps of wood) and worktop (where my belt/disc sander will be).
 
I added a trim to the plywood edges using some salvaged poplar.
 
Next I started to build the unit that the mitre saw would sit on.  I had some white 1 inch thick melamine which I cut to size for the top and some salvaged plywood as a side panel.
 
I used a straight edge and some sheets of paper as a "feeler guage" to make sure that the mitresaw table and the worktop were perfectly level with one another until it was as accurate as I could get it.
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Mobile Tablesaw Stand for DeWalt DW745 (part 2 of 2) - Workshop Re-Model Episode 3

In this video I make a back panel for the stand out of some low grade packaging plywood.  I did this mainly to stop some of the dust getting in to the bottom section where the shop vac and jigs will be stored, but it will also add rigidity to the stand.

Next I fitted the shop vac hose, using a hole saw drill bit.

I cut some pieces of poplar in to 10mm strips, cut them to length and glued and nailed them to the front edges of the stand mainly to hide the plywood edges for aesthetics.

I went and bought some epoxy coated drawer runners so that I could fit a couple of drawers to the front section.  Unfortunately they didn't come with any instructions so I measured the thickness of them with digital calipers, and then used that to calculate what size I would need to make the drawers.

The drawers were a very simple construction - 18mm plywood (thicker than needed, but it's what I had to hand and I wanted to use up the offcuts) glued and screwed butt joints, and a plywood panel glued and screwed to the bottom.

The drawer fitting went smoothly apart from that there wasn't quite enough clearance between the two drawers, but I used the tablesaw to cut a few mm off the top of one of the drawers and then re-fitted - problem solved.  

Next I could add the drawer fronts, for which I used some oak veneeered plywood offcuts.  I positioned them where I wanted them using hot glue, and then I could screw them on from inside for extra strength.  I used a steel ruler to space the drawers apart.

I made some drawer handles for the drawers using some offcuts of mahogany ripped at an angle on the tablesaw to create somewhere for fingers to grip.  I glued and clamped these to the drawer fronts.

I added some boiled linseed oil to finish the drawer fronts, and they looked pretty nice.

 

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Mobile Tablesaw Stand for DeWalt DW745 (part 1 of 2) - Workshop Re-Model Episode 2

In this video I start making a mobile stand for my tablesaw the DeWalt DW745 as part of my workshop re-model to achieve a new layout.
 
My old mobile stand for the tablesaw had been thrown together quite quickly and so there were a number of improvements I wanted to make for the new version.
 
I started by designing the stand in 3D using SketchUp to get an idea of what I could make from the materials I had.  As usual, I just wanted to use reclaimed materials, stuff I already had in my workshop.
 
I’ve created some free plans showing full dimensions and a cut list – this is available on the Resources page. These plans are optimised – i.e. any mistakes I made during the build process, I have rectified for the plans.
 
I wanted the following:
· For it to be the same height as my workbench, so that I could use my workbench as an outfeed table
· An extension table – this would give me more work surface in the workshop and also makes it easier to rip larger sheet materials on the saw
· Space for my tablesaw jigs – like my cross cut sled, frame spline and tenon jigs
· A couple of drawers for tablesaw accessories – wrenches, push sticks, angle guauge, inserts etc.
· Space to introduce a new shop vac to the workshop – one that will be permanently hooked up to the tablesaw
 
It was a challenge finding a 30 litre shop vac that would fit on the stand underneath the tablesaw, as I was restricted to 523mm height, and a lot of the manufacturers don’t list the dimensions of the products they sell on their websites!  But eventually I found one in my local ScrewFIx – a Titan 30 litre 1400 watt machine.  It would only fit in the space without either the handle attached, or the wheels – I opted to take the handle off, and add the wheels to the bottom – and that just fits inside nicely with about 5mm height clearance.  
 
I started by cutting the plywood panels to size based on the 3D drawing I’d done – there are 5 panels in total (excluding the back panel which is optional) and I used 18mm thick material just because that’s what I had. I didn’t have quite enough plywood to make the whole thing so ended up using a piece of melamine for the central shelf.
 
With the panels cut to size, I could then assemble.  Simple construction - butt joints, drilled pilot holes, applied wood glue and used drywall screws (again, just because that’s what I had available).  I used a speed square to keep everything square and measured carefully to ensure that the tablesaw’s table and the extension table would sit at exactly the right height that I wanted based on my drawing.
 
I re-used the castors from my old tablesaw stand on the new stand – these were screwed in place and I used some brass washers to get a bit more purchase.
 
For the top section where the drawers would be, I wanted to ensure that this was spaced accurately so I cut a couple of scrap pieces to use as “spacers” – it worked out really well.  I also ended up using the spacers as kind of a cleat type thing (not sure how better to explain!), to attach the worktop from underneath.
 
For the extension table, I used a scrap piece of kitchen worktop that I had left over from my kitchen re-fit earlier in the year.  It was 40mm thick.  I cut it to size on the tablesaw.  
 
I used some pieces of wood that I’d salvaged from an old futon bed some time ago to make a trim for the extension table to hide the chipboard edges of the melamine worktop.  I cut 45 degree mitres and glued and nailed them in place. 
 
This build will continue in part 2 when I will make a back panel for the stand, add a trim using some poplar to hide the plywood edges at the front, and build and install the two drawers.
 
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Small Workshop Layout Changes - A Quick Introduction - Workshop Re-Model Episode 1

Just a quick video to talk about some of the changes I'm going to be making in upcoming videos to achieve a new layout for my workshop.

Making A Quick And Simple Tenon Jig For The Tablesaw (DeWalt DW745)

In this video I make a quick and simple (and not very pretty) tenon jig for my tablesaw, the DeWalt DW745.  

I started by creating a box from some scraps of plywood that fitted snugly around the tablesaw fence, which means that the jig will move along with the fence.

Then I added a side fence and a back fence with wood glue and screws to support the workpiece so that it can be clamped down.  I cut out a shape on the side fence with the jigsaw to make it easier to attach clamps.  

It was critical that both fences were at a perfect 90 degree angle to the tablesaw's table and that the tablesaw blade is at a perfect 90 degree angle to the table when making tenon or morise cuts to achieve a perfect joint.  

There's also the option to tilt the blade and use the same jig as a dovetail jig if you want to get clever!  

The jig turned out pretty ugly, but that doesn't really matter to me - as long as it is functional that is all I need!  And it works well.

 

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Making A Workbench Out Of Salvaged Things (part 2 of 2)

In this video I make a worktop for the bench from some 1" thick salvaged plywood which came from some industrial packaging, 

Then I re-fit my Redada Number 2 vise using a spare block between it and the worktop.  

I fitted some drawer handles to the set of drawers that didn't already have them.  

Then I fitted some pieces of pine to trim the worktop and the frame to cover the plywood edges and tidy up the look.  

Finally I applied a few coats of varnish and show you what I've got stored in my new drawers

 

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Making A Workbench Out Of Salvaged Things (part 1 of 2)

In this video I start making a new workbench for my workshop using salvaged materials.  

I used three sets of drawers salvaged from an office clearance, some salvaged plywood donated to me by a friend, and some parts from my old workbench.  

I began by making a large 3/4 inch plywood box to accommodate the three sets of drawers and added a piece at the back to keep it rigid and square.  

I added the legs from my old workbench to this one, as I wanted the new workbench to be the same height so there was really no need to make them again.  

I also salvaged an old drawer from the old workbench and added it to the new one. 

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