In this video I make a back panel for the stand out of some low grade packaging plywood. I did this mainly to stop some of the dust getting in to the bottom section where the shop vac and jigs will be stored, but it will also add rigidity to the stand.
Next I fitted the shop vac hose, using a hole saw drill bit.
I cut some pieces of poplar in to 10mm strips, cut them to length and glued and nailed them to the front edges of the stand mainly to hide the plywood edges for aesthetics.
I went and bought some epoxy coated drawer runners so that I could fit a couple of drawers to the front section. Unfortunately they didn't come with any instructions so I measured the thickness of them with digital calipers, and then used that to calculate what size I would need to make the drawers.
The drawers were a very simple construction - 18mm plywood (thicker than needed, but it's what I had to hand and I wanted to use up the offcuts) glued and screwed butt joints, and a plywood panel glued and screwed to the bottom.
The drawer fitting went smoothly apart from that there wasn't quite enough clearance between the two drawers, but I used the tablesaw to cut a few mm off the top of one of the drawers and then re-fitted - problem solved.
Next I could add the drawer fronts, for which I used some oak veneeered plywood offcuts. I positioned them where I wanted them using hot glue, and then I could screw them on from inside for extra strength. I used a steel ruler to space the drawers apart.
I made some drawer handles for the drawers using some offcuts of mahogany ripped at an angle on the tablesaw to create somewhere for fingers to grip. I glued and clamped these to the drawer fronts.
I added some boiled linseed oil to finish the drawer fronts, and they looked pretty nice.
Just a quick video to talk about some of the changes I'm going to be making in upcoming videos to achieve a new layout for my workshop.
In this video I make a quick and simple (and not very pretty) tenon jig for my tablesaw, the DeWalt DW745.
I started by creating a box from some scraps of plywood that fitted snugly around the tablesaw fence, which means that the jig will move along with the fence.
Then I added a side fence and a back fence with wood glue and screws to support the workpiece so that it can be clamped down. I cut out a shape on the side fence with the jigsaw to make it easier to attach clamps.
It was critical that both fences were at a perfect 90 degree angle to the tablesaw's table and that the tablesaw blade is at a perfect 90 degree angle to the table when making tenon or morise cuts to achieve a perfect joint.
There's also the option to tilt the blade and use the same jig as a dovetail jig if you want to get clever!
The jig turned out pretty ugly, but that doesn't really matter to me - as long as it is functional that is all I need! And it works well.
In this video I make a worktop for the bench from some 1" thick salvaged plywood which came from some industrial packaging,
Then I re-fit my Redada Number 2 vise using a spare block between it and the worktop.
I fitted some drawer handles to the set of drawers that didn't already have them.
Then I fitted some pieces of pine to trim the worktop and the frame to cover the plywood edges and tidy up the look.
Finally I applied a few coats of varnish and show you what I've got stored in my new drawers
In this video I start making a new workbench for my workshop using salvaged materials.
I used three sets of drawers salvaged from an office clearance, some salvaged plywood donated to me by a friend, and some parts from my old workbench.
I began by making a large 3/4 inch plywood box to accommodate the three sets of drawers and added a piece at the back to keep it rigid and square.
I added the legs from my old workbench to this one, as I wanted the new workbench to be the same height so there was really no need to make them again.
I also salvaged an old drawer from the old workbench and added it to the new one.