In this video I use some reclaimed perspex to make a sharpening station to hold my sharpening stones/plates.
I used perspex rather than wood as I use water to lubraicate my plates and stones and I didn't want a material that would absorb the water.
I use the following products for sharpening, and as you see at the end of the video I get pretty good results with these.
Draper Honing Guide: http://amzn.to/2rIhK9h (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2reUdvx (Amazon US)
Taidea 360/600 grit diamond plates http://amzn.to/2toED25 (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2rIolkm (Amazon US)
King Japanese 1000/6000 Whetstone: http://amzn.to/2shn7cH (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2qEpTaE (Amazon US)
I first cut a piece of perspex on the tablesaw to the size I wanted the station to be which in my case was 460mm x 280mm (as I wanted it to fit inside my drawer.
Then I ripped some more strips at 20mm to create a border which would hold everything in place.
I used super glue and spring clamps to stick the border on. Super glue works well on perspex but it can make it go cloudy - not a problem in this situation as I wasn't worried about how it looked, it just needed to function.
I soon ran out of spring clamps so I used bulldog clips.
Next I cut and glued some spacers in between the plates/stones to position everything where I wanted them - I wanted everything placed so that I could fully use each the surface of each plate or stone to sharpen a chisel.
I cut a few mor spacers to hold the stones in place at the top so that they wouldn't move forward/backwards.
I did some sanding to ease over the sharp edges.
Next I cut a length of 40mm square pine to size to mount on to the bottom of the perspex. I drilled pilot holes, and countersunk the holes to get the head of the screws below the surface of the perspex. The purpose of the piece of pine on the bottom was purely to make the station mountable in a vise.
At the end of the video I give a quick demonstration of my sharpening method using the station.
I'm happy with how it turned out, and it was made entirely from reclaimed/scrap materials so it didn't cost anything.
In this video I make a simple panel cutting jig for my tablesaw the DW745 using salvaged materials.
Last in a short series about re-modelling my small workshop space.
In this video I make a simple box out of some salvaged OSB to store wood. Simple butt joints, glued and screwed, and I added some castors to the bottom just because I had a spare set which will be useful if I ever need to move it around.
Then I start work on my second tool wall. The old wall wasn't insulated and it was looking really messy, and as I had enough salvaged OSB to clad the wall I took the opportunity to insulate the walls and start from scratch. I used plasterboard on the lower half of the wall and made some simple skirting boards out of pallet wood. I filled gaps with decorators caulk and then painted everything with white satin paint to make the walls clean and bright.
At the end of the video I talk about a few other changes I made - clamp storage, tool wall etc. and finally show some photos of the new workshop space.
In this video I make a back panel for the stand out of some low grade packaging plywood. I did this mainly to stop some of the dust getting in to the bottom section where the shop vac and jigs will be stored, but it will also add rigidity to the stand.
Next I fitted the shop vac hose, using a hole saw drill bit.
I cut some pieces of poplar in to 10mm strips, cut them to length and glued and nailed them to the front edges of the stand mainly to hide the plywood edges for aesthetics.
I went and bought some epoxy coated drawer runners so that I could fit a couple of drawers to the front section. Unfortunately they didn't come with any instructions so I measured the thickness of them with digital calipers, and then used that to calculate what size I would need to make the drawers.
The drawers were a very simple construction - 18mm plywood (thicker than needed, but it's what I had to hand and I wanted to use up the offcuts) glued and screwed butt joints, and a plywood panel glued and screwed to the bottom.
The drawer fitting went smoothly apart from that there wasn't quite enough clearance between the two drawers, but I used the tablesaw to cut a few mm off the top of one of the drawers and then re-fitted - problem solved.
Next I could add the drawer fronts, for which I used some oak veneeered plywood offcuts. I positioned them where I wanted them using hot glue, and then I could screw them on from inside for extra strength. I used a steel ruler to space the drawers apart.
I made some drawer handles for the drawers using some offcuts of mahogany ripped at an angle on the tablesaw to create somewhere for fingers to grip. I glued and clamped these to the drawer fronts.
I added some boiled linseed oil to finish the drawer fronts, and they looked pretty nice.