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Building The Workshop Shed Extension (part 2 of 2)

I cut some more spruce at the tablesaw to make some columns that would later support the doors for the extension.  These were glued and screwed on to the frame. I could then add cladding to the front panels.
I wanted one single piece of cladding to run the length of the front of the extension right at the top.
I measured and cut to length one of the cladding pieces.
 I could then offer it up  mark up the position of the doors on to it. I marked a pencil line where I wanted to remove material, and then cut it away with the jigsaw.  I cleaned up the jigsaw cuts with a block plane just to get them straightened up.
Next I needed to rip some off the top of it in order for it to fit in place underneath the roof, and I was going to do that on the tablesaw but then I realised that wasn't possible - as it couldn't go against the fence due to the shape of the workpiece.  With hindsight I should have made this cut first, but it was too late for that so I marked up what I needed to remove and ripped it using the circular saw instead.
That slotted in place nicely so I secured it with screws at each end, and in the middle I cut a couple of filler blocks so that I could secure it in the centre too.
So now that the columns were fitted at the front, the OSB sheet could no longer fit around it, and I couldn't remove it now either, so I needed to cut it while it was in place.  The oscillating tool was perfect for this job - I just cut a couple of notches away and it was problem solved. And I could screw it down
Next I started insulating the shed - I am mainly doing this to cut down the noise as there'll be an air compressor and dust collector inside. 
This stuff is Rockwool sound insulation slabs. I bought two of these packs on eBay for £52, and there was 9 slabs in each pack. I could have just about gotten away with just one pack, but I thought that I might want to double it up in some areas.  
I used an old handsaw to cut it to size which worked well.  This is quite nasty stuff so I wore gloves, and probably should have been wearing a respirator also.
I added to the wall, roof and underneath the floor too.
I used an old salvaged piece of chipboard as a bottom panel just to make sure the insulation wouldn't fall out.
At this point Dylan came by to inspect my work.
And as I was unsure how much weight the wall could take, I thought I'd do a sitting test.  I wasn't quite  confident enough to do a Matthias Wandell style jump test.
I had an old piece of plasterboard so I used that to secure the insulation in the roof.  I secured it with screws in the middle, and cut some blocks of wood to use as cleats to secure it at the sides. 
Next I needed to finish off the cladding, I'd left the awkward bits until last.  I measured the angle of the roof with a bevel guauge and that allowed me to mark up the final cladding pieces for the side panels.  The first just needed a small corner removed which I did on the
bandsaw. And the final piece was cut in the same way at the bandsaw.
Then I ripped a piece of cladding at the tablesaw to 18mm square to create some corner posts.
I ripped a small 45 degree bevel on the corner too, just to make it easier to nail them in place.
Next I started working on the doors. I first ripped a couple of battens at the tablesaw.
I measured and marked up where I wanted the battens to be in relation to where the floor was, as I wanted the bottom batten on the door to close on to the top of the floor if that makes sense....
I marked up the screw positions and then added screws through the cladding and in to the battens from underneath,
Then I could add a batten at the top and I used a clamp just to hold the cladding pieces tightly togehter.
In between the battens I could add more insulation.
I then offered up the door to check it would fit, and it was slightly too big in some areas, so I marked up the high spots with a pencil and used my planer to straighten those out, and then it fit perfectly.
I fitted the doors using these galvanised hinges and some of these security screws to ensure that no unwanted visitors armed with a screwdriver would be able to get in to it.
Next I added a piece of hardboard to the inside of the door, glued and screwed to the battens which would hold the insiulation in place.  I'm just using scrap materials here - as you can probably tell I'm not really concerned what the inside of the shed looks like - it really doesn't matter to me.  
I made the second door in exactly the same way, but it needed to be ripped down to the right width, so I cut a couple of cm off with my circular saw and then fitted it in the same way as the first door.  And I designed the doors so that I retained the tongue and groove overlap where the doors close on to one another so that there is no gap between them.
I chiselled away some of the insulation from the inside of the door so that I could add a small block of spruce, which I could then mount the latch on to.  And I bought a padlock to keep it secure. In future I'll also extend my workshop alarm system to cover the extension too.
That's the extension all done.
I'm pleased with how it turned out, it's a lot more rigid than I expected it to be and I don't have any major concerns about the weight.  I knew the extension itself was going to be plenty secure enough anyway just from the fixings to the workshop wall, I was more concerned about whether the workshop wall itself could take the weight of it if that makes sense - that could have been interesting had it have fallen down.... 
But the workshop walls are bolted together at the corners, so I think it'll be OK.
There are a few things I would do differently if I were to build this again.  Firstly, I would have lined up the cladding of the extension with the cladding of the workshop just for aesthetics.  That never occurred to me until after I'd already added the cladding.  No big deal though.  
Other than that it's pretty much how I envisaged it to be.
There will be a follow up video or videos which will show my new dust collection system.  I thought I'd keep that as a separate video as I'm not sure how many people will be interested in that.

Building The Workshop Shed Extension (part 1 of 2)

In this video I'm going to be adding an extension to my workshop.
The extension will hold be cantilevered from one of the walls of my workshop, to make it as unobstructive as possible in my garden.
And it will be mounted to the uprights of the workshop wall.  It's a bit of an experiment, as I'm not entirely certain that the wall will be able to take the weight - but we'll find out!
And the plan is to use the extra space to install a new dust collection system with a cyclone.
After drawing up a 3D design in SketchUp, I decided to also make it big enough to accommodate my air compressor.
And I'll also insulate the inside of the extension to try to minimise noise from both the compressor and the dust collection unit.
For the frame of the extension I'd use spruce as I had quite a bit of it in my workshop already. It's good for construction and it's lightweight.
All the pieces I had were 38mm thick, so I set my tablesaw fence to 38mm and ripped some 38mm square pieces.
I used the mitre saw to cut the pieces to length based on the dimensions from my drawing.
First I'd make two rectangles to form the side panels of the extension.
I drilled pilot holes and used glue and screwed butt joints for the joinery.
These rectangles would be mounted to the uprights of the workshop wall. I first marked up a plum line using a spirit level to use as a guide.
And I could use the screws that were holding the cladding in place to indicate where the centre of the uprights were.
I decided to use these concrete screws for mounting the frame.   My uncle gave me a tub full of these a while back and this seemed like a good project to use them as they are very long and strong.
I drilled a 6mm pilot hole through the frame and in to the upright in the wall and added the first screw.  Then I could check for plum using the first screw as a pivot point, and add more screws.
To get the next part of the frame at the right level, I first used a clamp to hold it roughly in place, and then I could use the spirit level taped to a 3 by 2, and make the necessary adjustments from there.
And I secured that to the wall in the same way.
Next I marked up the position of the side panels on to the 3 by 2.  THis would be one of two floor supports.  
I cut it to length, and then marked up the material I wanted to move in order to create a lap joint.  I cut the joint by setting my circular saw blade height to the depth of the joint, and then made a series of cuts.  I could then remove the bulk of the material using a hammer and clean it up with a chisel.
I could then secure it to the side panels with glue and screws.  I cut four of these pieces in total, two to support the front and back of the floor, and two for the roof, which were added in the same way, but upside down.
The next part of the frame would be a diagonal brace, which would add a lot of strength and rigidity to the side panels.  I first cut a 45 degree end on the mitresaw, then I could offer it up and mark it up for length, and make the next cut on that mark. 
And then I could glue and screw that in place.
The frame spanned two more uprights in the wall towards the centre of the extension, so I cut another piece of spruce as a filler piece so that I could add some more fixings to those uprights.  I did the same to the top panel, or roof, too.
Next I added some floor support struts. 
These were attached with glued and screwed through the front, and I drilled some pilot holes at an angle to secure the back.
I also cut and added some  small pieces to make up the difference in height between the bottom of the side panels and the top of the floor supports.
And the roof got a central support brace too.
I bought a sheet of OSB and I'd use this for the floor and roof.
I measured and cut the OSB to size with my circular saw, and cut a couple of notches out to fit around the frame.  THe reason I fitted this piece of OSB next was because it would come  in really handy as shelf while I was working.
I already had a couple of pieces of this cladding at home which were left over from the workshop build four years ago, but not enough to do the whole extension.  I used my circular saw to cut the cladding down so I could fit it in my car.
Before adding the cladding, I decided to start working on the roof, as it was due to rain.  I wanted cut some angled roof trusses and there was an obstacle to work around - this security light.
I measured up the height of that from the frame, and made a mark on a piece of spruce that was about 15mm less than that measurement.  I used my tapering jig on the tablesaw to cut the angled trusses, finishing off the cuts at the bandsaw.
These pieces were glued and screwed to the top of the frame. 
I offered up another piece of OSB for the roof, and all looked good.
I had an old scrap of sapele, and I glued and screwed this to what would be the front edge of the roof panel.  This was just to give me something solid to later tack the roof felt on to.
I could then secure the roof panel to the top of the frame.
I got a roll of roof  felt from my local reclamation yard, and I cut a piece to length and added it to the roof.  This fitted nicely underneath the security light fitting. 
I ripped down the top of one of the pieces of cladding using my circular saw and I'd use this to secure the roof felt to the top of the roof. 
And this is when it started raining!
I cut the corner of the roof felt away and then slid it in place, and then added the piece of cladding using some screws.  I didn't film this because - rain - but this is how it looks now it's fitted.
Then I added some roofing tacks in to the piece of sapele that I added to the OSB earlier.
I could then trim off the excess roof felt with an old knife.
I also added some more sapele to the sides of the OSB roof panel, and the roof felt got attached to that in the same way.
Next I started cutting the cladding to length, using my speed square to guide the cuts.
I used one screw in the centre of each cladding piece.  This will allow for seasonal movement as the wood expands and contracts.

VLOG 1 - Salvaged Wood Haul / Work In Progress / New Camera Gear / Tool Talk

0:36 Salvaged Wood Haul
4:26 Coming Soon & Work In Progress
8:00 New Camera & Audio Gear
11:29 Tool Talk - Festool Domino, Makita LXT Trim Router & more
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Panasonic V770 Camcorder: http://amzn.to/2xEtA7S (Amazon UK)  http://amzn.to/2ymQVKa (Amazon US)
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Testing Biscuit Joint Strength - Do Biscuits Add Strength To A Woodworking Glue Joint?

In this video I test the strength of various materials like melamine, plywood, MDF and solid wood with biscuits and without biscuits to see if biscuits add any strength.

I've heard people say that biscuits are purely for alignment, but others say that they add strength.

The results were very surprising to me!

Restoring A Hand Plane - vintage Stanley No. 4

In this video I restore a vintage Stanley Number 4 hand plane which I purchased on eBay.

This handplane dates from 1948-1961 which is a really old model.  I used this website to check the age of the plane.

There was some rust to deal with, a loose handle, and the plane needed a set up as the frog was set too far forward.  The blade was also in need of a thorough sharpening.

I started by dissambling the handles and frog from the plane and I cleaned up all the rust from the bear metal parts with 80 grit sand paper.  I also oiled the bear metal parts once they were clean.

I could then re-fit the frog further back from where it was originally.

I used a knife blade to scrape off the old lacquer from the handles, and then sanded them with 80 grit abrasive paper.

I used Teak Oil to finish both handles.

I needed to shorten the bolt which held the rear handle in place so I used the grinder for that.  The bolt then sinched down the handle nicely, and I only needed to remove a couple of milimetres.

Next I flattened the sole of the plane.  I used a Sharpie to mark up the base of the plane, and some 80 grit paper on a flat surface (piece of melamine.  The sole had a big hollow in the centre, so it took quite a bit of sanding to get flat.

I also sanded the sides of the plane in the same way, and eased over the sharp edges to make it more comfortable in the hands.

I then cleaned up the cap iron and cutting iron, again with 80 grit abrasive paper and again adding oil to the bear metal parts to prevent them from rusting.

I then used my usual sharpening technique to bring the cutting iron edge to a mirror finish using the products listed below:

Draper Honing Guide: http://amzn.to/2rIhK9h (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2reUdvx (Amazon US)

Taidea 360/600 grit diamond plates http://amzn.to/2toED25 (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2rIolkm (Amazon US)

King Japanese 1000/6000 Whetstone: http://amzn.to/2shn7cH (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2qEpTaE (Amazon US)

Green Polishing Compound: http://amzn.to/2ro1do1 (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2qEzvCq (Amazon US)

After re-installing everything and a quick set up of the frog and cutting iron alignment, I tested the plane out and it works brilliantly.  This is already my favourite hand plane to use, it has surpassed my expectations. Previously my "go to" hand plane was my Record no.;5 buton this one the cutting seems to hold a better edge and the plane feels great in the hand.  I LOVE IT!

Simple Workbench Dogs

In this video I make some simple dogs for my workbench.  

Before I started, I wasn't sure I'd need/use them, but fancied giving it a try - and now they're installed I haven't stopped using them

I started with a scrap of oak that was around 33mm square which I'd use to make the dogs.

I picked the back left hand corner of my workbench for a few reasons - I have access to the underside of the worktop in this area, it's also in a good position to plane/sand etc, and finally it's out of the way of the main surface area of the worktop.

I started by drlling 30mm holes through the worktop with a forstner bit in my drill.  I drilled a few more holes with and then chiselled out the rest of the material until I had a square hole to fit my piece of oak. My worktop is plywood which wasn't the easiest thing to chisel, but it worked OK.

Once the dog fitted the hole, I then mounted an offcut of plywood to the underside of the worktop with woodglue and brad nails to cover half of the square hole. Then I inserted the dog, and made a pencil mark from underneath. 

I cut away 5mm in from the bottom of the dog and halfway through the workpiece on the bandsaw so that the bottom of the dog fits in and protrudes below through the plywood mounted to the bottom. With the dog seated fully in the hole, I then drew a pencil line around where the dog was flush with the worktop surface, and cut all the way through the workpiece with the bandsaw.

The dog can then be used by pushing it out from underneath, rotating it 90 degrees, and re-inserting so that the dog sticks out around 5mm from the top of the worktop.

I ended up adding a second dog level with the first one which will be useful for working on wider boards.

This was a really simple project that only took a couple of hours and has been a really good addition to my workbench.

Making A Quick, Simple and Strong Workbench

Recently a friend of mine got in touch and asked me for help building a workbench.  He wanted something simple and strong to fit in to a space in his garage and he sent me these dimensions. 
So I did a drawing on SketchUp, I designed a simple frame made from basic 63mm x 38mm construction timber these are more commonly known as 3x2s, although they actually measure less than 3 by 2 inches.  I also worked out a cut list and worked out that we needed 7x 2.4m lengths of the 3x2s to complete the frame which Steve bought new. 
For the top and the shelf, I already had some salvaged pieces of 18mm plywood which I found dumped by some bins, they were painted and a bit dirty on one side, but fairly clean on the other side. 
Free plans showing all the dimensions and a cutting list will be available on my website if you're interested in building this bench.
We started by cutting the outer leg pieces to length. I used the mitre saw to cut all of the pieces for the frame to the right length based on the drawing. 
Next we cut the inner leg pieces which would later support the apron rails, or stretchers that would support for both the shelf and the worktop.
I set up a stop block at the mitre station to cut these pieces to a consistent size.
And then we cut the apron rails or stretchers to length.
So these are the pieces we cut, the four pieces on the left are the aprons and on the right are all the pieces that would form the legs.
So we positioned the small pieces flush with the bottom of the outer leg pieces, then used an offcut as a spacer to get the distance correct for the apron rails, and applied wood glue.
We drilled some holes with a countersink bit and screwed the pieces together.
I marked up with a pencil some positions for the screws just so they were centred and spaced equally apart just for aesthetic reasons. 
Next we applied glue and added the apron rails which we attached with 2x 60mm screws. I used a large sash clamp to hold the pieces in place
Then we cut some shelf supports that would go in between the apron rails to support the shelf and the main worktop.
We used up some of the short scrap pieces of the 3x2s by ripping them in half to create some cleats.
These were then cut to length and glued and nailed to the sides of the shelf supports and would later be used to attach the shelf and worktop from underneath, so we pre-drilled the holes for that.
Then we cut the side pieces for the frame.
Next we did a dry assembly of the frame just to check we were on track with our measurements for shelves and started cutting the plywood to size starting with the main worktop.  Because these were salvaged pieces I first checked to find a corner that was a perfect 90 degree angle with a framing square and then I took all my measurements from that corner.
I set up a straight edge to cut it to the correct width.  My straight edge was a bit too short to use clamps so I got Steve to stand on one end instead.
I made the cut with my cordless circular saw.
And then I could cut it to length.
Then we cut the shelf to the size we wanted.  And to fit this piece between the legs, we needed to make a few cut outs. I used the jigsaw for that and a speed square to mark them up,  And that fitted in place just fine.
We wanted to cover the plywood edges at the front of the workbench to make them more hardwearing.  I had some reclaimed pine bed slats which I ripped to strips of 20mm on the tablesaw.  Then I glued and brad nailed it to the front. 
And for the worktop we did the same again except we also mitred the corners and did the sides of the worktop as well as the front to give it a cleaner look.
I used a block plane just to break the hard edges of the trim pieces.
Then we went to Steve's to assemble the bench.  We could add the shelf supports with glue and 2 screws on each side. There were two for the worktop and two for the shelf.
And then we could add the side pieces which would also support the shelf and worktop.
THen I tipped it on it's side to add the shelf and it was quite a tight fit now so I used my body weight to force it in.   
I could then add screws through the cleats in to the plywood to secure the shelf.
We didn't add wood glue here as we thought it would be useful to be able to replace the plywood at a later date once it gets worn out.
And then I added the top, making sure it was nicely centred on the frame.
We then offered up the workbench to the space and we'd deliberately left an overhang at the back of the shelf and worktop so that we could fit the bench around the brick pillar along his wall. We marked up where the pillar was on to the shelves, and cut it out with the jigsaw.  So the pillar stuck out 12cm from the wall, so we'd left a 12cm overhang between the edge of the back of the shelves and the frame to account for that.
And it fitted in place nicely.
This was a nice quick and simple project and the total cost of materials was £21, that was for the 7x 3x2s.  Everything else was either salvaged or stuff I already had in the workshop.
If you'd like to build your own then full drawings, dimensions and a cut list will be available on the Resources page of my website.

Perspex Sharpening Station

In this video I use some reclaimed perspex to make a sharpening station to hold my sharpening stones/plates.

I used perspex rather than wood as I use water to lubraicate my plates and stones and I didn't want a material that would absorb the water.

I use the following products for sharpening, and as you see at the end of the video I get pretty good results with these.

Draper Honing Guide: http://amzn.to/2rIhK9h (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2reUdvx (Amazon US)

Taidea 360/600 grit diamond plates http://amzn.to/2toED25 (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2rIolkm (Amazon US)

King Japanese 1000/6000 Whetstone: http://amzn.to/2shn7cH (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2qEpTaE (Amazon US)

Green Polishing Compound: http://amzn.to/2ro1do1 (Amazon UK) http://amzn.to/2qEzvCq (Amazon US)

I first cut a piece of perspex on the tablesaw to the size I wanted the station to be which in my case was 460mm x 280mm (as I wanted it to fit inside my drawer.

Then I ripped some more strips at 20mm to create a border which would hold everything in place.

I used super glue and spring clamps to stick the border on.  Super glue works well on perspex but it can make it go cloudy - not a problem in this situation as I wasn't worried about how it looked, it just needed to function. 

I soon ran out of spring clamps so I used bulldog clips.

Next I cut and glued some spacers in between the plates/stones to position everything where I wanted them - I wanted everything placed so that I could fully use each the surface of each plate or stone to sharpen a chisel.

I cut a few mor spacers to hold the stones in place at the top so that they wouldn't move forward/backwards.

I did some sanding to ease over the sharp edges.

Next I cut a length of 40mm square pine to size to mount on to the bottom of the perspex.  I drilled pilot holes, and countersunk the holes to get the head of the screws below the surface of the perspex. The purpose of the piece of pine on the bottom was purely to make the station mountable in a vise.

At the end of the video I give a quick demonstration of my sharpening method using the station.  

I'm happy with how it turned out, and it was made entirely from reclaimed/scrap materials so it didn't cost anything.


Simple Panel Cutting Jig for DeWalt DW745 tablesaw

In this video I make a simple panel cutting jig for my tablesaw the DW745 using salvaged materials.

Finishing The New Workshop Layout - Workshop Re-Model Episode 8

Last in a short series about re-modelling my small workshop space.

In this video I make a simple box out of some salvaged OSB to store wood.  Simple butt joints, glued and screwed, and I added some castors to the bottom just because I had a spare set which will be useful if I ever need to move it around.

Then I start work on my second tool wall.  The old wall wasn't insulated and it was looking really messy, and as I had enough salvaged OSB to clad the wall I took the opportunity to insulate the walls and start from scratch.  I used plasterboard on the lower half of the wall and made some simple skirting boards out of pallet wood.  I filled gaps with decorators caulk and then painted everything with white satin paint to make the walls clean and bright. 

At the end of the video I talk about a few other changes I made - clamp storage, tool wall etc. and finally show some photos of the new workshop space.