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Jewellery Box made from pallet wood (Part 2 of 3)

The next job was to cut some splines at the mitred corners to re-enforce the strength of the box.

I set my tablesaw blade to a height to ensure it wouldn't cut through to the inside of the box, and used my frame spline jib to cut three slots on each corner, equally spaced.

I cut some splines out of some scrap pieces of sapele and glued them in place.  To cut them to the right size, I used a spare tablesaw blade to set the distance between the blade that was fitted and the tablesaw fence ensuring that the blades were tooth to tooth.  This gave me perfectly sized splines which I cut out on the bandsaw before gluing.

I trimmed off the excess spline material at the bandsaw and sanded them flush with the sides of the box.

Next I marked up where I wanted to make a cut for the lid, lined up the mark with my blade and made the cut at the tablesaw,

To make sure that the lid and top of the box were perfectly flat I sanded them on a flat board covered in sandpaper with sticky back tape.

WIth the box finished, I started working on some partitions to sit inside the box using the left over panels of meranti.

I ripped them to the width I wanted on the tablesaw and used my bandsaw to resaw the material to give me more pieces. to work with Then I sanded the pieces and cut them to length on the mitre saw. 

I wanted two of the pieces to cross over to form a cross so I cut out a joint on the bandsaw in the centre of each piece and pushed them together, getting a snug fit by using a file.  Then I could glue the partitions in place.and weighted them down using a brick.

I wanted to make a tray which would sit on top of the partitions, so I made another mitred box with another slot and 5mm plywood bottom in the same way as I had made the main box.  I glued and clamped this together.

Once it was assembled I needed to do some sanding to get it to fit inside the box.






Jewellery Box made from pallet wood (Part 1 of 3)

In this video I make a jewllery box out of some pallet wood which I believe to be Meranti.

I started by cutting out all the bits with nails in, and then used my electric planer to get one edge and one face of each piececleaned up and square.  

I glued the pieces up in panels with the flattened sides face down and the jointed edges together, and when the glue had dried I ran the panels through the thicknesser to clean up the other side.  Unfortunately the grain on the wood tore out quite badly so I ended up using a sharp cutting edge in a hand plane which had much better results.

Next I cut the panels down to the size I wanted the box to be and mitred the panels using my panel sled on my tablesaw.

I cut a slot near the bottom of the box to accommodate a 5mm plywood bottom which I cut to size at the tablesaw..  

Then I could assemble the box with the plywood bottom in the slot.  I used some elastic bands to hold it all together until the glue dried as I only had one strap clamp.

Next I cut a top panel to length at the mitresaw.  I wanted to set the top panel inside the box so I made some reference marks and cut some rebates at the tablesaw so that the panel would fit snugly inside at the top of the box.  I cleaned up the cuts with a chisel and then glued on the top panel using some claamps to apply pressure.  Once that was dry I made it flush with a handplane.


Wooden YouTube Play Button (mahogany and poplar)

In this video I make a wooden YouTube Play Button, because I hit 20k subs and 100k subs (which is when YouTube will present an official plaque) seems quite far away!

I chose mahogany for two good reasons - firstly, it has a reddish tint and secondly I had some small scraps of it to use up!  These pieces came from some reclaimed wooden hat and coat stands - the pieces I used were the feet that supported the upright piece.

I started by ripping them square on the tablesaw, to remove the tapered face.  

Then I jointed one side and ran the other through the thickness planer.

I glued the pieces together and clamped them with bar clamps

When the glue had set I used a hand plane to clean up the faces of the new block.

Then I trimmed the excess off each end.

I used a pencil to mark up the play icon, and a round object to round over the corners, and then cut the edges on the bandsaw before refining the shape at the belt sander.

Next I drilled a recess in the play icon using a forstner bit on my drill press table before routing out the rest of the icon shape.  I then needed to chisel out the rounded over corners to form the triangle.

I made a rubbing of the shape on a piece of paper, and then stuck that piece of paper to a piece of poplar which came from a pallet collar.  I chose poplar as it is pale in colour and will contrast well with the mahogany.

I cut out the shape on the bandsaw and I could then glue it in to the recess.

I used the bandsaw to trim off the excess material (as the poplar was quite thick).

Then I used the hand plane to get the inlay flush with the mahogany face of the block.

I tilted my tablesaw blade and cut bevels on all 4 front edges of the block and used a hand plane and orbital sander to smooth over the bevels.  

I used teak oil to finish the play button.  I'm really happy with how it turned out.



Making Simply Picture Frames

In this video I make some simple custom sized picture frames for my brother.  He sent me the dimensions, there were five in total.
He wanted them spray painted black which is a good thing for two reasons – firstly I could use some scraps of wood that I had piling up in the workshop that don’t match, as the paint will disguise that. And secondly, my usual method of making frames using my frame spline jig is a little bit more time consuming than what I planned to do to make these ones - which is just to use wood glue and regular brad nails to assemble the frames together. 
I got started by ripping various scraps of wood to be 25mm square until I had a pile that looked big enough to make 5 frames.  Some of the pieces I used had rough sawn faces, or edges that weren’t perfectly straight, or they were dirty – so I cut off any of those bits that were no good.
Now that I had lots of lengths which are 25mm square, I wanted to cut a rebate joint that will be 12mm by 12mm down the length of each piece, and I did that on the tablesaw.  I set the blade height to 12mm using my calipers, and I set my table saw fence at 9mm because the thickness of the kerf of my tablesaw blade is 3mm – so that will give me a 12mm x 12mm cut.
Next I made a 45 degree mitre cut on one end of each piece at the mitre saw.
To assemble the frames, I applied wood glue to the mitre joints and held the corners together temporarily with a piece of tape.  I used speed square to check for squareness, and then I could fire in a couple of brad nails on each side of each corner of the frame.  The glue would do most of the work to hold the frame together, and the nails will act as a clamp until the glue sets and also add a bit of extra strength too.  
Once the glue had dried, I peeled off all the tape,  added some filler to the nail holes and then sanded all of the edges flush. 
I got some black spray paint from the pound shop, and used that to spray the frames black.
I used Perspex for these frames because I had some already, it was 6mm thick which is way thicker than needed, but it’s what I had so that’s what I used.
I measured up the internal dimensions and cut the Perspex to size on the tablesaw and then I could slot it in place.
Then I could cut some sheet material for the back of each frame to the same size as the perspex, and I had a mixture of some scraps of hardboard and plywood in the workshop, so I used a bit of both.
I used some framing pins to hold the backs in place.  

Making A Coat & Shoe Racks

I salvaged some pieces of oak veneered MDF with solid oak trim, these were old book shelves that were stored in a cold, damp building and they started to go mouldy so were going to be thrown away.  

I had hoped that the mould would clean or sand off, however after trying I realised that the mould goes right through the veneer and in to the MDF, so I decided to cut off the mouldy parts and make use of what was left.  

My house has a small entrance porch, and I cut some shelves to the width of the alcove in the porch and fitted them to an adjustable shelving system with brackets to make use of the shelves as a shoe rack.

I wanted to make a matching coat rack with a shelf at the top, to sit above the shoe rack on the wall. 

I started by cutting the top shelf to length on the mitre saw and then ripped it to the desired depth on the tablesaw.

I then used the offcut to make the back piece of the coat rack that would have hooks on for the coats.

Then I cut some corner supports that braced the two pieces together at each end.

The hooks for the coat rack came from the salvaged hat and coat stands that I've been using in a lot of recent projects.  I have a lot of these hooks so if anyone needs some, get in touch as it'd be great to get them put to some sort of use!

I assembled the rack with glue and screws from the back and secured the top shelf with glue and brad nails.

Then I cut some strips of oak and glued and taped them on to the MDF edges so that they would not be visible.

Finally, I install the rack to the wall.

Fitting Some Angled Alcove Shelves

I had an alcove in my dining room that was dead space, and it was too shallow to put a piece of furniture there because it would encroach on the doorway entrance to the room.  So I decided to instead install some shelves.  

I used some 1" thick pieces of melamine - they were actually faulty desktops at my place of work - the holes were drilled in the wrong place for the desk frames, so the supplier replaced them with new ones so these were all going to be disposed of, and I asked if I could take them home.  

I wanted to cut the shelves at an angle to match the shape of the alcove, so I placed a straight edge against the two front corners and used a bevel guage to measure the angle which I think was around 80 degrees.  I could then mark this up on to one of the pieces of melamine, and also mark up the desired depth for each side of the shelf as well as the length of the front of the shelf.  I cut it out on the bandsaw which left a really nice clean cut with no chip out.  

I had to cut out the corner to fit around a piece of architrave surrounding by doorway too.  Once I had one shelf that fit nicely, I could use it as a template to cut out the rest of the shelves.  I made some shelf supports out of some scrap pieces of blockboard I had in the workshop, and drilled pilot holes on the rill press.  

Then I could install the shelf supports and shelves, which were screwed down to the shelf supports to make them more solid.



Making A Rustic Pallet Wood Wine Rack

For this video I wanted to test out the Evolution Rage 3 mitre saw that Evolution Tools recently sent to me to try out.  

I had some spare pieces of pallet wood in my workshop, which came from lots of different pallets so I had varing lengths and thicknesses.  I used some 22mm thick pieces to make the frame for the rack, and used the mitresaw to cut all the pieces to size and also to cut the dado housing joints which hold the frame together.  

I cut the holes for the bottles and wine glasses with the jigsaw and then assembled the frame with wood glue and clamps.  Then I cut some thinner 15mm thick pieces of pallet wood to use to clad the back of the rack.  

The whole thing was then stained using Rustic Pine Briwax.  

Then I installed it on my kitchen wall with a couple of screws.  Unfortunately we only had one bottle of wine in thouse house to put in the rack.  Wine never lasts long in my house!


Making Some Hardwood Drinks Coasters

I had lots of offcuts of sapele, oak and teak from the recent dining table build.  They were cluttering up the workshop so I wanted to put them to good use.  

I used the thickness planer to get all of the pieces to a consistent size and to ensure they were all flat.  Then I glued and clamped the pieces together with wood glue.  

When the glue had set, I used a handplane to flatten the laminated workpiece.  

I used a compass to scribe some circles on to the workpiece, and then I could cut the individual coasters out on the bandsaw, and refine the shape of each one on the belt sander.  

I used some double-sided tape to attach some sandpaper to a flat surface (my workbench) and sanded each of the coasters.  Then I applied Superior Danish Oil to bring out the grain nicely.  

Then I added a few coats of varnish, and finally added a coat of clear Briwax which I later buffed to a nice sheen.  I figured the more coats of finish I applied, the more protection from moisture.  


Making An End Grain Chopping Board / Butchers Block From Salvaged Oak

In this video I make a chopping board from some salvaged oak hat and coat stands


Making Hardwood Drinks Coasters

A friend of mine donated me some lengths of hardwood - oak, mahogany and teak (I think).  I used them to create these drinks coasters to give as Christmas gifts.  I got about 36 coasters in total out of the laminated block of wood - 8 sets of 4 coasters.  I had a few issues - the glue up was tricky and it took a while to find a finish I liked, but they looked good in the end!